Friday, February 13, 2009

Mui Ne/Hoi An

I took a bus heading to Mui Ne on the coast. We stopped at a rest station and had a nice bowl of Pho. When I headed back to the bus, I saw a Westerner lean over a food cart and take a bong hit out of the cart. The guy was selling corn and weed. It was the first time in my life that I wish I smoked.

Mui Ne is a beach resort, but kind of disappointing compared to Thailand. The weather turned overcast, so I rented a bicycle to get some exercise. I rode for 15 km to the famous red sand dunes here. When I arrived all hairy and sweaty in my wife beater, an Asian man pulled me aside and posed for pictures with me. I was the attraction.

I took a 16 hour bus ride to Hoi An. Sounds worse than it is. The bus was a strange sleeper with 3 rows of bunk beds. It was still a long ride and I arrived at 7 in the morning. After checking out most of the sights in like 2 hours, I was ready to leave. I didn’t, however, have the energy to hop on another bus, so I booked a trip to some temples for the next day. Then I rented a bicycle and spent the day on the beach.

This whole town seems to be built on tailoring. I think people come here to have clothes made and wait on the beach until they are ready. My hotel is run by a dozen beautiful, charming, young Vietnamese girls who constantly try to sell you tours and services. So, I booked a tour to see some ruins for about $2 more than it costs in town, which doesn’t sound like a lot but its like a 50% markup.

Having been to Angkor, the ruins were underwhelming. They were beautiful and there were paddies and the people wear those cool little hats and there are colorful tailoring shops and the food is good, but still I must say: Vietnam is the most visually attractive of the three Asian countries that I have visited, but it is also the least fun. It really is all business and feels like it. It is missing the adventure of Cambodia or the laid back party vibe of Thailand. Whatever, I have 11 more days to see Hue, Hanoi, Ha long Bay and maybe eve some places that don’t start with the letter “H”.

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